Let's talk a little about some Ukrainian specialty foods! One of my many favourite topics.
Today's focus is on two things - beets and horseradish. In Ukrainian cuisine, this is also known as Tsvikli.
Tsvikli - What is it?
Tsvikli (цвіклі - written in Ukrainian Cyrillic) is basically a relish with a combination of both beets and horseradish, vinegar and spices. It is typically used as a spread on breads, meats, or as a general condiment or adjunct with many different types of dishes.
This is a staple in most Ukrainian households, and when I was growing up, we would perpetually eat this at Easter, with food baskets being prepared and taken to our local church to be blessed on Holy Saturday. The blessings of the Easter basket is a prominent Ukrainian tradition, and each year, my grandmother or Baba, would make amongst other things, Tsvikli, and place it in a small glass container nestled in amongst some decorated pysanka (eggs), bread, sausages, cheese, and a candle, to signify light and life. I have fond memories of these sacred times, and of course, with food being the central core of it all. I have to say, next to herring, Tsvikli was always one of my favourite foods. Truthfully, I could eat it daily.
In Ukrainian culture, as well as many others around the world, food is often symbolic - everything that is eaten has a historical and/or spiritual meaning attached to it. Horseradish is a bitter herb, and used by the Jewish people at Passover to represent the bitterness of their captivity in Egypt. When mixed with beets, this is a reminder to the Ukrainian people of the bitterness and blood of Christ, that is overcome in the Resurrection.
Some Background History:
Although the propagation of beets first shows up in writing in 1542 from either Italy or Germany, it quickly became a staple for the more North-Eastern European cultures, as it is one of the only vegetables that grows well throughout the winter. Both the greens, the originally consumed part, and the taproot (what we simply refer to as root) can be eaten raw or cooked.
Horseradish is a broadleafed, perennial plant, and a member of the Brassicacae family,
which is the same family as cabbage and radish. The pungent odour is attributed to the various volatile oils, aka glucosinolate, or mustard oils, that are found within the plant itself.
The original use for horseradish (хрiн - Cyrillic pronounced as xreen or khrin) was for medic nal purposes which historically dates back to the 1500’s BC in Egypt where it later spread into Greek society. Ancient Greek and Romans may have used for a variety of medical conditions, such as back pain and/or menstrual cramps, digestive issues, asthma, coughs and colds. On a personal note, my grandmother used to make a chest poultice combined with mustard and horseradish, whenever us grandkids had a cold or chest congestion. I didn't always like smell, but dang it worked like a charm.
Eventually this bitter herb made its way into the 19th century, into the American midwest, where Illinois for example, adopted the claim of being the "horseradish capital of the world". Now of course, we know horseradish grows around the world, and next to garlic, it's practically the easiest thing to grow in my opinion. It's very rugged and cold hardy, and can easily spread even from just one plant, so you don't need much even to start your own crop of horseradish in your garden.
Either way you eat it though, the two - beets and horseradish marry well together to provide a lovely aromatic flavour - the combination of slight bitter and sweet, along with the spices makes for an appetizing zip to your meal.
Where can I find Tsvikli?
Well, there are certainly recipes I'm sure out on the internet that you can attempt on your
own. Of course, you can also find out Tsvikli both through our online store, and a several places scattered about town - Sandy's Ukrainian Kitchen, as well as Sandy's Ukrainian Market in Nanaimo are two such places. Also, you can find us at our local Gabriola Island Farmers Markets and various holiday venues throughout the year.
And I know what's going to be on my Easter table this year, next to the ham - Tsvikli of course!
Here's wishing you good health and good cooking this Easter ~ Olena
Disclaimer: no medical advice has been given with the writing of this article. To purchase Tsvikli, visit our website at: https://www.angelstarfarm.ca/product-page/beets-horseradish-tsvikli